This is my report of my Antarctica Expecition from January 16 - January 26, 2007. I have tried to give you a view on Antarctica with words and pictures. There is of course a lot more to see on Antarctica than what you find here. The expedition group counted 44 members. Such a small group gave us the chance to go on land quickly. Bigger groups take more time to land and have shorter periods on land. It was warm and sunny. I have registred the highest temperature of 59°F on Half Moon. The lowest temperature we had on Damoy Point during camping: 33°F. At the locations we landed we had about 3 hours to see it all. And that should be enough for everyone. We only missed one landing (Deception Island) but we had 13 successful landings and 3 successful zodiac cruises. This is very exceptional for an expedition like this. Usually the number of landings is less. Remember... the larger the group, the less number of landings and the shorter the time on land.
Picture taken on Half Moon: Gentoo Penguin
A word of thanks
First I want to thank Beluga Expeditions (http://www.beluga.nu/) for the fantastic amount of information and help I received about Antarctica and the possible expeditions during my preparation. After a lot of talks with other expedition members it became clear that Beluga Expeditions was the best choice for this adventure. That has to be said.
I also want to thank the Quarck Expeditions staff for their fantastic guidance: Brandon Harvey (Expedition Leader), Andy Miller (Biologist), Phil Parfet (Geologist), Jonathan Shackleton (Historic and family of the famous pooltraveler Ernest Shackleton 1874 - 1922), Louise Adie (Kajak Master), Jamie Scarrow (Kajak Support/Camping) Anna Greenham (Schip's Physician)
And of course I want to thank Captain Igor Kiselev, his officers and the crew of the Akademik Shokalskiy for a safe passage and a fantastic journey
Thank you all expedition members: Hans, Andrena, Gary, Michael, Robbie, Michael, Martin, Maria, Mark, Seamus, Wendy, Ken, Valerie, Neroli, Maureen, Lynne, Kris, Bill, Geraldine, Alice, Deyanne, Bill, Lesley, Shelley, Colleen, Jim, Bea, Paul, Bob, Pudge, Cindy, Dave, Jonet, Joakim, Ed, Toni, Tom, Ed, Kees and my special thanks to my cabin mates: Craig en Sven.
Remark:
Antarctica is a protected wildlife nature reserve by treaty (http://www.antarctica.ac.uk/About_Antarctica/Treaty/. It is expected from all visitors on Antarctica that they know this treaty and act accordingly. Violations will be punished. So if you plan to take a penguin home, stay at home. If you plan to tease or to nag some Elephant Seals, stay at home. If you want to organise a barbeque on one of the Antarctic islands, stay at home...
Antarctica is a wonderful nature reserve. Let us keep it that way so everyone can enjoy it.
And now onward with the journey...
Ushuaia: January 16, 2007
Akademik Shokalskiy
After spending a night in the Los Ñires hotel (http://www.nires.com.ar/) in Ushuaia (Argentina) and a visit to the beautiful Tierra del Fuego National Park we were ready to go aboard the Akademik Shokalskiy.
The introduction of the expedition staff, the Captain and some of his officers was followed by a real "Lifeboat Drill".
Drake's Passage: January 17, 2007
Drake Passage during the storm
Heavy Storm: 10 Beaufort (Thanks to Jonet for the correction.). All activities were suspended. Het was forbidden to go on deck. It was much to dangerous. There was only access to the Bridge. It was asked to stay in the cabins, unless absolutely necessary. Late in the afternoon there was a recap in the bar with short lectures from Andy about birds and Jonathan about Beaufort. More than half of the expedition members were in bed, seasick.
Drake's Passage: January 18, 2007
First Land: Livingston Island
The storm was decreasing and most expedition members were up. On the bridge we had a good view and we saw many different birds.
Lectures:
Andy: Penguins
Jonathan: "We were here first - were you really?" The first explorers of Antarctica
Phil: Historical Geology of Antarctica
Brandon: Zodiac Briefing
Brandon: International Association of Antarctic Tour Operators (IAATO) http://www.iaato.org/
Antarctic Sound: January 19, 2007
Icebergs in the Antarctic Sound
Me on the Akademik Shokalskiy, sailing between the icebergs
Getting up at 4.00 AM to see the icebergs, in all shapes and really big.
East Antarctisch Peninsula: January 19, 2007
Landing Brown Bluff
Brown Bluff: Thousands of Penguins
Our first landing on Antarctica. It was very impressive. Not only the number of animals (Chin Strap Penguins, Adèlie Penguins, Gulls, Crabeaters, Seals) but also the walk on a glacier. Walking on a glacier can be dangerous so we learned a technique to walk carefully just to prevent we would fall into a crevasse.
Landing Esperanza Station
Esperanza Station
In the afternoon we have landed at the Argentinian base Esperanza Station, where families live together. There is even a school, a church, a hospital... and a lot of penguins.
South Shetland Islands: January 20, 2007
Landing Half Moon
Half Moon: A boat from a previous landing
On Half Moon there were lots of beautiful colored mosses, adèlie penguins and chin strap penguins, blue-eyed shags and even a young elephant seal of about 5 months.
After this landing there was a lecture by Jonathan: "Heros or Humans? The Heroic Age Begins".
Deception Island
Deception Island: Remains of a Brittish base
It was not possible to land on Deception Island. The wind was at almost 50kn. Some other ships had been attempting to have a landing earlier that day, but one of those landings almost ended up in a complete disaster. Deception Island is a giant vulcano. We have been able to sail with the Akademik Shokalskiy in the vulcano to all sides.
Cuverville, Neko, Paradise Bay: January 21, 2007
Landing Cuverville
Cuverville Island: "Pinguin Highway"
The Gentoo Penguin colonies on Cuverville Island are protected and cannot be approached. With a good camera taking pictures was still possible. In the bay of Cuverville Island we saw some humpback whales, but keeping in mind that some of them died and left their bones on the island.
Landing Neko Harbor
Neko Harbor: Gentoo Penguins
At the East coast of Andvord Bay lays Neko Harbor. Aside of the Gentoo Penguin colony we saw some nesting birds. An Argentinian hut gave a safe feeling. We climbed up a small mountain to enjoy the silence. It was a place to stay. But something else was waiting for us: The polar plunge, with the temperature of 41°F and water temperature of 32°F. After the polar plunge there was a big party and barbeque on, the deck of the Akademik Shokalskiy.
Neko Harbor: Polar plunge: here I come out of the Antarctic water after my polar plunge - I can recommend it
Zodiac Cruise Paradise Bay
Pictures: see Zodiac Cruises
Lemaire Channel, Petermann Island, Pléneau Bay, Port Lockroy: January 22, 2007
Lemaire Channel
Lemaire Channel: covered with ice
As usual, being up early. We wanted to see the ice in the Lemaire Channel. It had been warm and the large icebergs which are sometimes blocking the Lemaire Channel were not there. Lucky for us, so we could pass quickly.
Petermann Island
Petermann Island: A picture of me on Petermann Island
Petermann Island was the most south point of the expedition (S65°10' W64°08'). Coordinates taken from Jonathan's GPS. A colony of gentoo penguins and Adèlie penguins are living and breeding next to eachother without any problems. They are not even arguing. There was a scientist camp here. These scientists are volonteers, studying the penguin communities on the Antarctic Peninsula. In this period they were on Peterlmann Island.
Zodiac Cruise Pléneau Bay
Pictures: see Zodiac Cruises
Port Lockroy
Port Lockroy: Me at Port Lockroy between the penguins
"Do not stand on a penguin." was the first we heard during landing breefing. And yes, we had to be very careful. Port Lockroy is a Brittish base of the Antarctic Heritage Trust (http://www.heritage-antarctica.org/). There is a museum, a souvenir shop and a post office. To much to write down. So I recommend to have a look at the website of the Antarctic Heritage Trust (http://www.heritage-antarctica.org/).
Camping on Damoy Point
Damoy Point: Gentoo penguin colony
Damoy Point: Camping you do in a tent...
On Damoy Point we have spend the night in a tent on the ice. Twenty brave expedition members wanted to get an idea what it must have been like for the first men on Antarctica about a hundred years ago. The highest temperature we had was 41°F and the lowest temperature was 30°F. The sun was behind the mountains, but it stayed light the entire night. An experience not to be forgotten, especially with the company of an elephant seal and hundreds of gentoo penguins.
Danco Island, Melchior Islands: January 23, 2007
Danco Island
Danco Island: High on the rocks
Danco Island was our last landing. The gentoo penguin colony was spread out on the island up to the high rocks. Bones of whales had been lying there for many years. This was the place we would leave in sadness. The last time on Antarctic land...
Zodiac Cruise Melchior Islands
Melchior Islands: Argentinian base
At Melchior Island we did a zodiac cruise. We have seen humpback whales, a crabeater many different birds and chin strap penguins in a very rough but beautiful landscape.
Pictures: see Zodiac Cruises
Drake Passage: January 24-25, 2007
Drake Passage: Back to Ushuaia
After our first adventure in Drake's Passage everyone was a bit concerned about the upcoming weather. But there was no storm. The see was flat and calm. So we sailed at maximum speed (12.5kn). We had the chance to see many birds and whales which accompanied us on our way. After an average of 4-5 hours sleep during the expedition, we enjoyed some extra sleep and rest these two days.
Lectures:
Jonathan: A Feckless Irishman - Nearly reaches the South Pole
Phil: Ice, Ice, Ice
Andy: Antarctic Food Web
Brandon: Orcas, A Natural History
Jonathan: By Endurance we Conquer
Phil: Working in Antarctica
Ushuaia: January 26, 2007
Ushuaia: We are back where we left
Animals
Animals seen by expedition members
The following birds have been seen during this expedition:
Humpback Whale: picture taken during zodiac cruise
Leopard Seal: picture taken during zodiac cruise
Mossen
Movies
Gentoo Penguins at Port Lockroy, Antarctica
Gentoo Penguin on Petermann Island, Antarctica
Historical Locations
Hope Bay
The original hut build by the Sweeds Gunnar Anderson, Duse en Grunden to stay the winter at Hope Bay. They were three members of the Sweedish Otto Nordenskjöld expedition (1901-1903).
The story of the Otto Nordenskjöld expedition can be found here:
Danco Island is named after Emile Danco, geofysicist aboard the Belgian Adrien de Gerlache de Gomery expedition (1897-1899). Danco passed away during this expedition on Juni 6, 1898. This is a memorial plate of the Brittish Antarctic Survey (http://www.antarctica.ac.uk) concerning the Brittish Base O in use from February 1956 - February 1959. The bones of the whales have been untouched.
The story of the Belgian Adrien de Gerlache de Gomery expedition can be found here:
During Operation Tabarin during World War II, Site A was build by the Brittish navy. This was the first outpost of a series of outposts. On the picture is Jonathan Shackleton (with permission of Jonathan Shackleton) at the main building on Port Lockroy. The original Site A was in use up to 1962 as a research station. In 1996 Port Lockroy was renovated and set up as a museum.
Port Lockroy is a Brittish base of the Antarctic Heritage Trust (http://www.heritage-antarctica.org/). You can also find more information about Operation Tabarin and Port Lockroy on that site.
Zodiac Cruises
During a zodiac cruise you can see things and animals from very close which you cannot see on land or from the ship. Pictures above already showed a leopard seal and Humpback Whales. We saw crabeters on small icebergs, blue-eyed shags nesting against the rocks and beautiful icebergs.
Route
The travel route: Ushuaia - Drake's Passage - Antarctic Sound - Brown Bluff - Esperanza Station - Half Moon Island - Deception Island - Neptune's Bellows/Whalers' Bay - Bransfield Strait - Gerlache Strait - Spigot Peak - Cuverville Island - Errera Channel - Neko - Paradise Bay/Skontorp Cove - Lemaire Channel - Petermann Island - Hovgaard Island - Pléneau Bay - Neumayer Channel - Damoy Point/Dorian Bay - Port Lockroy - Goudier Island - Jougla Point - Damoy Point - Neumayer Channel - Danco Island - Melchior Islands - Drake's Passage - Ushuaia. We traveled 1710 nautical miles (=3167 km.).
Links
To get to know Antarctica a bit better, or for very good maps, I recommend these links:
