1. NEVER refuse an invitation. There will be many and they can often lead to wonderful experiences and adventures. 2. ALWAYS at least try any food they put in front of you. Miso soup, grilled fish, sea weed, rice, left over sushi, fruit and tea are not weird for breakfast, they're terrific! My host mother and I had a little game, I'd asked her not to make any special effort to make western food, she wasn't planning to but took this as a que to try to find SOMETHING that I wouldn't eat. I ate it all and it was delicious. Listen, many Japanese won't eat "Natto", (small smelly, fermented beans), but they're really tasty on rice. Granted, boiled Mochi is strange. And even better, I lost 6 kilos! And always remember, eating cheap in Japan means getting a Bento, finding a temple and having a picnic. 3. GO to the flea market in Nagoya at the Osu-Kannon(?) Temple on the 18th and 26th of each month. Lots of great, old pots. I spent several hours in one stall alone! Lots of beautiful and cheap, second hand kimonos as well. Actually the whole area around the temple is a "cheap/trendy" shopping area, well worth an exploration. There's a department store there (can't remember the name of, it's on a corner) that has wonderful, reconditioned, second-hand kimonos. A man's, heavy silk kimono, deep blue and black pattern, WITH jacket was about $30. I could kick myself. 4. BUY a Japan Rail Pass BEFORE you go, by several! It's a win-win situation, the voucher you don't use you can sell back to the travel agent for 90% of the value (or 100% if you buy it from JAL). Train travel is expensive! Other land travel is cheaper but slower. And the "Shinkansen Experience" is something to be, well, experienced. Just the ticket from Kyoto to Sendai (where a friend was studying) cost more than the one week rail pass and I was able to travel a couple of times to Koriyama (to help them move), visit the "mad potter of Miharu" (has a Shigaraki ware planetarium hanging in his foyer) and get down to Tokyo on it. 5. GET all the free guides you can from the Japan National Tourist Organisation Offices (near Kyoto station in Kyoto). And search the Clayart archives for stuff on Japan. Many a Clayarter has gone before you. 6. PLAN to spend more than a few days in Kyoto! Stay at the Toji-An Guest House (it's in the guides), it's not too clean but it's REAL cheap and they're very friendly and pretty central. Plan to spend LOTS of time wandering around the Gojo Zaka (Gojo-dori) below the Kiyomizu Temple, this is the MAIN pottery area of Kyoto. Stay away from the shops selling "Tenooki ware" (you'll know it when you see it). Avoid the Kyoto Tojiki Kaikan ("tenooki-ware"). Visit the gallery of Morioka Kasho, his work is wonderful. His daughter, Hana studied jewelry in France speaks good french. I hope you stumble onto the Naka Tani (?) Gallery. They had some of the finest artist potter stuff that I'd seen, in ALL price ranges. I think I bought 5 pieces there (all cups). A little bit west along the Gojo-dori is the house of Shimizu Yasutaka, son of Shimizu Uichi, it looks closed but the sign in front of the door says enter in Kanji (DO!). I have a sake cup of his that I adore. Just a little further west down the road from there, past the second pedestrian over pass, is a terrific old ramen restaurant. The owner has been there forever, knows the Shimizu family and dragged out several pots that Shimizu Uichi had given him when he lived there. Wander up and down ALL the streets, poke your nose in, you'll stumble onto the most amazing things. Kawai Kanjiro's house is a must! (all this is in the Gojo-Zaka area). I hear that the Raku Museum has been renovated and they have a fantastic retrospective of the Raku family there (thanks Robert Yellin!). It was CLOSED when I was there! We rushed to the Nomura Museum just in time for the closing but they let us look and buy some post cards so we would know what we missed (sadists!). Judging from the post cards, I wouldn't miss it again. 7. STAY at the Kimi Ryokan in Tokyo (recommended by Clayart). It's not near as cheap as the Toji-An but a whole lot cleaner, actually beautiful and the staff are equally friendly. Tokyo was great but I really prefered Kyoto. The Idemitsu Museum was closed for renovations, the National Craft Museum (WAY over on the other side of the palace complex!) had some really nice collection but was disappointingly small. However, do plan to spend a day wandering around the Omote Sando area. Exit the metro stop going west. Very hip, very bohemian, a run down area, inhabited by squaters/artists who opened up workshops and galleries. It's probably on it's way to becoming too trendy but still alot of fun. As above, poke your nose in. If that's not enough to set your mouth watering......